Makeup by Elizabeth Chang

Technically this isn’t my job, but it makes the title easier to understand. I cannot emphasize enough how I shoot only for pleasure. My original inspiration for this project, codename “723″, was from Herb Ritts‘ photo of the previous generation of super models all huddled nude next to each other, and I though, why not? I also loved the Sports Illustrated 2006 group photo of all the girls standing next to each other on the beach in white bikini bottoms. I don’t think the real challenge in this project is the technical requirements, but rather getting a group of girls to show up at the same time on the same day. I contacted over 20 girls I’ve worked with previously, and in the end 15 showed up which was more than I could have expected. If you’re wondering how I got all these girls to be part of this huge project, it all comes from having a very good relationship with each and every one of my models. Be nice and trustworthy to people and you will receive the same in return. Being modest yet confident helps as well!

I am extremely lucky and fortunate to have such dedicated supporters of my work, which allowed me access to resources that would have cost me an arm and a leg. My photographer friend Joseph King let me borrow a Hasselblad medium format with a CFV digital back + 50mm f/2.8, although it was only 16 megapixels, I opted to use Melissa Hom’s Canon 1Ds Mark III, which was 21.1 megapixels. With the camera options taken care of, I needed a wide open space to fit all these girls. I looked around Manhattan studio locations and daily rates were a minimum of $260 per hour to $1500 a day for just one floor. Instead, my friend Ziggy Chau was able to get me a 5-story 11,000 sq ft location called Bennett Media Studio for half the day, at no cost of course. I needed a few assistants to help me and maybe one makeup artist to do basic touchups, instead I was privileged with three professional makeup artists Nancy Lan, Jenn Kang, and her friend Paula who volunteered for this project, as well as my dear friend Frances Jeon as my main assistant.

My only expenses for this project were gifts for those that offered their time and energy. $500 worth of Victoria’s Secret gift cards for the ladies, and a $290 bottle of Chave Hermitage 98 delivered to Edward Bennett for his generosity of opening his studio to me, though I don’t think any guy would pass up 15 topless girls running around their place.

Onto the technical challenges. I specifically wanted natural light, but there’s a difference between shooting into the light versus with the light. I also had to work around the studio space and furniture, which meant I had to shoot with the windows as the backdrop. Having light coming in from the background means less contrast and flat lighting on your subject, which in the end could be more flattering. Unfortunately I was not able to use the Hasselblad’s 50mm lens to fit in all 15 girls, so I shot mostly with the 1Ds. One thing I should have done was shoot the 1Ds on the tripod which was holding up the unused Hasselblad! The studio wasn’t the brightest which required me to shoot at higher ISO and lower shutter speed, which definitely required a tripod. I also would’ve preferred a prime lens over the 24-70mm, but this time I traded convenience for sharpness. No more compromises next time, but of course this was also a great learning experience. The last black and white photo was lit with an AlienBee B400 strobe behind a large white sheet.

My goal for these photos is to sell large, limited edition prints. I’ll work out the details but willing to take up any suggestions or offers for the first edition!

Project 723

models: Christine, Anthea, Joli, Alyssa, Ruby, Lisa, Tanya, Anna, Nicole, Jestina, Venus, Ziggy, Sarah, Diana, Jeyona

Had I known there was such a gorgeous actress in the Toronto area, I would’ve gotten a nicer hotel.  My favorite style is backlit windows, though this is also the hardest to shoot. Nearly half of my shots are mis focused because while you look towards the model, she is basically a sillouhette and it is very difficult to focus. The only way to get enough light is to use a prime at f/1.8 which furthur increases the difficulty of getting a correct focus. After you’ve tackled the lighting issues, now you just have to get the model to flirt with the camera. =) The few shots that do come out makes it totally worth the trouble.  I feel quite privileged someone of her looks, talent, and maturity offered her time to model for my intime work.

I was listening to a famous female artist the other day, and thought how extremely talented she is, but wondered what did she do to herself after all these years, like all the other young rebellious artists that have been bombarded by the media. There seems to be a trend of a rising young star who starts out clean and wholesome, then after a few years of constant media barrages, they become the “bad boy/girl,” which not surprisingly, receives even more attention than being proper. This is obviously common knowledge and in the news every day, and unless you’ve been living under a rock for the past decade, you know how the story goes.

While the thought ran through my head, it dawned upon me how I, as an artist, am not immune to such social demands either. I am not famous by any means, just well known around my small community – and while I refer to myself, I am really talking about my work that represents me. My personal life has always stayed private and does not reflect the work I present to the public.

I place myself in the middle of what I think is a “true artist” and a commercial artist. I don’t starve nor do I only produce deep and profound work that comes from my inner soul, and I also am not a slave to what the people want and producing happy, pretty, profitable work. I only create work that stirs up my emotions, imagination, fantasies, and sometimes just plain ol’ eye candy, while keeping a discernible distinction of what’s proper for the public and what’s not. To put it more technically, I only share about 1% of my work with the public, and the rest are for my eyes only (and the subject of course).

As a new artist, the easiest and fastest way to gain an audience and approval is to produce work for the masses. If you sing, that means writing a catchy melody, if you create visual images, that means creating something pretty, in most cases. I have been in the same position in my early stages of my people-photography career. When working with models, I cater to what they want. I learn many new skills in the process. I create more pretty images. I make people happy and want me even more, thus making me happy as well. So where am I now?

While I still believe I am in my early stages of photography, I feel like I’ve paid my dues in catering to people, and I have more audiences than I could ever count. With all the compliments and critiques I’ve been receiving about my work, the most overused description is “classy.”

“Your work is so classy!”

“I love how it’s so sexy yet classy.”

“I want classy photos too.”

I almost feel the pain of the other young artists who are probably bombarded by society’s imposed image of them being a wholesome individual who has a lot more potential to create more happy products to please the rest of them. I do appreciate the compliments, I really do. If I can push some limits and still have people label my work as “classy,” that means I am still accumulating fans, after all, numbers count!

My issue now lies within my lack of responsibility to cater to what people want. Just like the already rich and famous artists, they no longer need the money or approval of everyone, they have proven their skills once before, and now their rebellious side comes out.

What is my rebellious side? I am honestly sick of hearing about my work being classy. I know what my work is, I know how to present it, and I know how people respond to it. The first thing that comes to my mind when I hear that word is “shut the hell up, you have no idea.” That is correct, you have no idea. Remember that 1%? You only see the top of the glacier when it comes to my work.

We all have our privacy and level of comfort when it comes to the topic of sex, from the simple distinction between male and female, to the visual stimulation of a body, to our own preference on how to please our sexual desires. This isn’t some underground culture that most people can only talk about, such as S&M. Everyone and their mom (yes, your mom too) has had sex, has an opinion on what’s sexy, and knows what stimulates their mind.

My interests is not to reveal the privacy of an individual, but to express the raw emotions and desires of people. I’ve captured everything from the simple beauty of a naked body, to the raunchy pornographic poses that most of you probably do in your own privacy in front of a partner, possibly in front of a cheap camera too! Too many people are caught up with definitions and classifications of work. “It’s okay to be nude as long as you look classy.” That’s a lame excuse to be nude. To me, classy has become boring and has many limitations.

Now that I’ve given a rough idea of the scope of work I produce, you might understand why someone that wants me to create sexy photos for them, yet limit me to a classification of staying classy, that I would turn them down upon hearing that magic word. Go find someone else just starting to create classy and safe images. My goal now is to breach the limits and boundaries of what an individual can allow to be captured on film, and while most of it will still stay private, I will continue to give my audience a glimpse of it.

Next time you’d like to give me a compliment on my photos, please choose something more descriptive and more creative than “classy.” I would really appreciate it.

I leave you with some encouragement:

update: I also forgot to mention the other word I hate. “Tasteful.”